6:00 p.m. Tuesday Night
Angela and I go to the Red Lion—the only English pub in Takasaki that I know of—to meet Grant for dinner. There are a few tables with a scattering of people. We read the katakana menu. Angela and Grant order their speciality: fish and chips. I order Shepherd’s Pie. We pay for our food in advance (that’s how they do it here). We talk with the German guy sitting next to us. The place slowly begins to fill up.
6:30 p.m.
Grant sips his Guinness. Angela and I sip our waters. The German guy keeps talking about his world travels. We nod.
6:45 p.m.
“Where is our food?” mutters Angela.
“Give it time,” Grant advises. “It’s Japan.”
“Oh my God,” says Angela. “The bartender is the cook.”
He—the sole employee—goes to the back to start cooking.
The waiter carries a plate out and sets it in front of a couple sitting at the bar. A couple that arrived after we did.
A second employee walks in. He takes care of the beer orders while the first guy continues busying himself in the kitchen.
“Gomen, gomen,” he apologizes, pulling out the 1,000 yen bill I had given him earlier and handing it to me. “The oven is broken. You can’t eat here.”
“大丈夫、”I said.“ちがおうレストランで食べましょう.”That may or may not be correct, but I wanted to say, “That’s okay, we’ll go eat somewhere else.” My incredulity is surpassed by something akin to rage.
I don’t care if only one guy was working at the Red Lion. I don’t care if it takes a long while to get my food. I don’t even care that the oven was broken (although he didn’t need to wait two hours to let me know). I care that every other person in the restaurant—even people who arrived 30 minutes after we did—ate before us. 日本へようこそ、indeed.
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